At the Pamir Lodge in Khorog I met Ryan and another Japanese girl, both coming from Dushanbe. Ryan had rented a car and driver for the adventure around the Wakham Valley, he was OK for us to join him on part of the trip along the Wakhan Valley.
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There are various police checks on the way too along the river. Specially arriving to Ishkashim. There is a very tiny bridge that connects Tajikistan and Afghanistan there. That border was closed when we passed through, it closed time to time we are told, depending on the political situation in Afghanistan.
The Afghan market that usually happens on Saturday in the village is no longer running due to the situation now in Afghanistan (the 19th April there was a terrorist attack in Kabul). It is small village and we stop for lunch here. There are a few tables and not many guests. The faces of the people are different from the one I have seen in Khorog (perhaps the afghan influence). We had a nice goulash, with lentils and meat although
the meat was just the fat of it.
On the way there are some hot springs and we visited Bibifatima. There is water, very hot springs, running as in a little waterfall. The fortress high up in the mountain was another highlight and the views to the valley spectacular. We took lots of panoramic pictures, we were playing with our cameras trying to capture the scene from all angles. The beauty of the place and the mountains just makes me want to take so many pictures!
A very nice welcome by Nazir and his guesthouse in the next village, just next to the solar museum. This is a tiny village but what is amazing about it is the proximity to Afghanistan. I went to touch the river in the morning, I am sure that in the summer people can have a little dip on the river.
The owner of the guesthouse is a very kind man, and the table was nicely served for our dinner.
An interesting conversation we had with a man from Slovenia, who was also staying at the guesthouse. I mentioned to him that I had obtained the visa for Afghanistan and that I was planning to go there. He told us he was working on the mines. Ryan said a comment about the stones but actually the Slovenian was referring to the land mines that cover a big part of Afghanistan. He told us he was going there regularly and that the situation is extremely wild and dangerous. He told me things happening there like kidnapping etc,
Then we get to Langar. I was imagining a bigger village but instead this place is really isolated. I have no phone or internet coverage, nothing seems to work here. I had to stay in this little very little village for two days because there is no transport back to Khorog or Iskashim.
I send some time reading, eating sweets, walking around and meeting the few locals. There is no one that doest say: come for tea, come to my house… The full moon I have seen there seemed to be so close to me, like I could touch it, so magical, so peaceful, so remote and isolated at the same time.
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